How To Repair The Front Gasline For Amana Stove

reg71		#i Posted : Thursday, October 28, 2010 8:49:05 AM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Fellow member Groups: Registered Joined: 10/22/2010(UTC) Posts: 6		M# ARGS 7650 WW P# 1130755 NWW Okay, after searching forums hither and chatting with the online help dude or whatever, I bought and replaced the ignitor. At least, I think that's what I did. Symptoms: No oestrus in oven. Burners upward top still all work, digital front panel seems to work, but when I press the oven button and cull a temp, it says 100 (this is where the temp starts on mine) then never goes upward. I have tried the broiler and tried cleaning mode to see if it would start. I can make the temp go up by holding a match on what I believe to exist the thermometer then that seems to work. Hither is what I have washed and perchance it can help someone else effigy out what I still need to practise. 1. shut off the gas to the stove and removed the gas line. 2. unplugged stove. 3. removed dorsum console (see moving-picture show, 4 screws) 4. removed the oven door. (2 screws) and the oven racks. 5. removed the old ignitor (I think that's what it was anyway, meet pics ii screws) half dozen. traced the wires from the old ignitor out the back of the stove. 7. undid the ceramic wire basics and disconnected the old unit of measurement. 8. removed the protective metal cage from the one-time ignitor and placed it on the new ignitor so mounted the new ignitor inside the oven. 9. ran the new wires out the back. 10. wired the new wires to where I had removed the old ones, and then replaced everything I had undone. (covers, doors, plugged in, plough gas back on etc. first to finish it was 25 mins which is nigh what others here have stated. At present, here's my dilemma: My oven still doesn't work. I replaced with part # AP 3440673 from this site which looked simply like my old unit. I was careful not to touch the tip of the new unit equally instructed. Everything went polish, merely it still doesn't rut up. So to recap, oven no go, broiler no get, stove works. No glow to ignitor. Is it possible to wire the ignitor backwards?? I assumed the ii wires were reversible and just wired them up equally before. What else should I consider (besides ownership a new oven)? Thanks in advance. Distressing it'due south so wordy, simply I thought if I used pics and words, I'd have a better chance of making myself clear, and possibly help someone else in the future.

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reg71		#ii Posted : Th, October 28, 2010 viii:53:21 AM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Fellow member Groups: Registered Joined: 10/22/2010(UTC) Posts: 6		I amy have mistyped the part number, but this link should bear witness the i I got form hither: Office Details - WHIRLPOOL Oven igniter, part number: AP2934763

reg71		#three Posted : Thursday, Oct 28, 2010 10:09:00 AM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 10/22/2010(UTC) Posts: vi		Ok. At this point it's similar I'm talking to myself because I didn't requite anyone a run a risk to answer earlier I did more digging in the parts section and found a 'bake ignitor' in the schematics. I'thousand guessing this must accept been my problem all forth. And then for those of you in the hereafter post-obit my saga, hither'due south how to get the broil ignitor out. i. unplug stove, shut off gas and disconnect. ii. open up and remove oven door (2 screws) three. pull out drawer beneath door to make more than room. four. lift broiler cover inside oven and remove 5. locate broil ignitor and remove (three screws) vi. lay oven forward plenty to be able to reach under the lesser. (I just tilted mine all the way onto it'southward front) vii. locate dark-green plug that is coming from within oven (It'south difficult to see in the picture merely when you actually are doing it, you can run across the green plug through the hole at the bottom left on the back of the stove) 8. unplug and remove bakeignitor through the front. This is as far as I got as I'm waiting for the part, only I presume, it's pretty much the same in contrary. But take the guard off the old ignitor and put it on the new 1. Here's a motion-picture show of the part I'1000 calling bake ignitor equally opposed to the earlier post when I replaced a larger flat ignitor and called it oven ignitor. And so, if there is anyone reading this that understands these things, can you tell me what I should have done differently to know which ignitor to replace? Possibly it will salve someone in the future a chip of headache. I fogot to give time gauge, prob about thirty minutes again once I knew what I was looking for. Information technology's of import to annotation that you tin can reach under and get the green plug disconnected crusade that saves a ton of fourth dimension in trying to remove the covers and such. Broil ignitor part number: WHIRLPOOL AP4041245 Link: Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Igniter, bake, function number: AP4041245

OvenBaked		#4 Posted : Tuesday, November 16, 2010 6:36:28 PM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 11/xvi/2010(UTC) Posts: ane		The top ignitor is for the broiler and the ane underneath is for baking. I'm curious if your broiler was working all along or if both ignitors were out.

hjhoffman		#v Posted : Friday, November xix, 2010 5:44:03 PM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Fellow member Groups: Registered Joined: eleven/nineteen/2010(UTC) Posts: 2		Your replacing the bake ignitor (norton). To test a Norton Ignitor you would check the current running through information technology. The easiest way to practise this is to use a clamp meter and connect it to 1 of the ii wires running to it. If it doesn't depict 3.2 to three.6 amps, it needs replaced (even if its glowing). If information technology's glowing and its cartoon the correct current (amperage), then you would supervene upon the gas valve. Also, it doesn't matter which way you connect the plug, unless, of course, its made to connect only one mode, but electrically, either way will piece of work.

hjhoffman		#half dozen Posted : Fri, Nov 19, 2010 5:47:sixteen PM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: xi/19/2010(UTC) Posts: 2		1 more thing, if y'all remove the two screws later taking the lesser drawer out--they agree a metallic comprehend 3" wide and 12" long at the very back of the stove, you tin just admission the plug to connect/disconnect the igniter without always moving or tipping your stove. Skilful Luck!

chel_in_il		#seven Posted : Tuesday, November 30, 2010 7:40:10 PM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: xi/30/2010(UTC) Posts: 2		Did you e'er figure this out? We have the aforementioned stove and the same issue - no rut from bake or broil. This is what we have determined: Ignitors have no power (tested using voltmeter) Gas valve no power (tested using voltmeter) Display is fine, no errors Stove top burners piece of work fine Door lock works (for clean cycle) Oven thermal overload is adept (ohms through) Wiring looks skilful - nix disconnected. Before this issue we moved the stove from a natural gas burning habitation to propane, adapted the burners, regulator, and replaced the broiler orifice. Occasionally we would hear a "poof" racket while baking. Otherwise oven has been working the last three months since its move. Of course, the oven failed all together Thanksgiving.

chel_in_il		#8 Posted : Th, December two, 2010 3:16:26 PM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Fellow member Groups: Registered Joined: 11/30/2010(UTC) Posts: 2		I would just like to add together that my Amana stove of the same model is now stock-still. Following the schematic, I tested the oven limit switch, the ignitors, and even the door switch; all were good. Took the control panel off and institute that the black and white power lead was burned out. The solder signal on the control lath had loosened. The connector was blackened on that lead. Resoldered everything and it is now working. And then, perhaps a bad solder point on the control board is the original affiche'southward issue. Michelle

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